![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:19 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
So my friend asked me to replace the front brakes on his 2003 Honda Civic EX, so today I started work. I got the driver's side caliper and rotor off just fine, but when I went to take off the rotor on the passenger's side, the screw that holds the rotor to the wheel hub is stuck and pretty much stripped.
How the hell should I get the screw out? I was thinking of picking up one of those "Grabbit" stripped bolt extractors, but I was wondering if there's a better option?
I consult the ever wise Oppo because you guys know best. Thanks in advance! Have a Civic Si as payment.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:22 |
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Uhm, I'd normally suggest a meat tenderizer/wooden dildo/hammer/IED.
But in this case, Penetrating oil perhaps?
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:25 |
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Drown in WD-40 and hope for the best.
I'm total helpless here, let me get back to you in a year after I've finished learning all this stuff at school
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:27 |
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First, soak it with WD40, and let it sit 10-15 minutes. Then do this:
When you are reassembling, make sure you use a brand new screw.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:31 |
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I had the same problem with my '99, I just used a large drill bit to cut the head of the screw off, then a dremel tool to grind the screw down flush, put back together with new rotors and no screws. Works fine, no trouble 3 years down the road. Problem with a screw extractor is if you break the extractor of in the hole you drilled for it, you are screwed because you can't drill out the extractor. I've never had a small extractor work, they always break.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:32 |
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Thats strange, well i dint know about the screws, my car has the disc just sitting there loose.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:32 |
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Gonna give that a try in a few minutes here. Thanks!
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:33 |
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Depends on the car.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:33 |
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if it is not totally stripped out, use a big screw driver and hit it with a hammer as you are turning. Other option is an impact screw driver that you can rent from autozone, it turns from the hammer blow. all else fails drill it out as explained below.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:33 |
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Dang, maybe the extractor isn't the way to go then. I'm gonna play around with it a bit more in a few minutes here and see what I can do. Thanks!
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:33 |
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Sure, man. Been there.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:34 |
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Yeah, wd40 and impact driver first of all. If that won't shift it, then there are other things to try, but that's the first port of call here.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:34 |
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I wanted to blow the fucking thing up when I saw the stripped screw. I'm going back to play with it some more in a couple minutes and I'll see what I can do!
I might try penetrating oil and see if that helps.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:36 |
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Ya most cars (in my experience) the rotors slide off when you remove the whole caliper, and others have a hex bolt holding the rotor on the hub. Apparently Hondas are notorious for putting those dumb ass phillips head screws in there.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:39 |
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I've had to use a torch to heat them and break the rust. Occasionally had to drill it and use an easy-out. But usually the Magic Juice of WD40 and a hammer does the trick.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:51 |
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use PB blaster instead. WD-40 is a water dispersant and a shit lubricant, you want a penetrating fluid to get into there. WD-40 is crap at getting stuck hardware unstuck.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:54 |
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Use PB Blaster instead.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 16:54 |
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The set screw is common on cars that use lug bolts (eg. BMWs) as opposed to lugs in the hubs and separate nuts. Honda apparently likes to use both lugs and the screw. It does hold the rotor in place nicely but isn't 100% neccesary on cars that use lug nuts.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 17:06 |
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As the doctor nine said you are gonna need the tool in his photo. I think it is an impact driver if I'm not mistaken. Or a good screwdriver a hammer and a bit if luck.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 17:09 |
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Some people say a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone is the best. A lot of folks like that PB Blaster. I use whichever of the penetrating lubricants I have around. Most will do it.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 17:14 |
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Ah i get it now...
i hate cars with lug bolts because many times when you are putting a tire on, you need to still be carrying it with one had in place to start screwing it, and its very difficult to get the lug bolt in the hole, and in the other way with lugs in the hub , the tire can rest there and and you start screwing the nuts easily.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 17:18 |
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If you make sure the hub and centre bore of the wheel are clean the wheel can generally rest on said hub while you insert the bolts but yeah, it can be a bit of a pain.
![]() 06/07/2014 at 18:50 |
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Hammer driven impact from autozone/napa/etc. Amazing investment.
![]() 06/08/2014 at 05:11 |
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What others have said here already. For the extreme situation:
In the past, I've had to start a drill bit in the totally stripped and stuck bolt, get it going to make a good indentation in the center, then shift to the larger bit that's approximately the same size as the bolt with the threads (not the head. Slightly smaller is ok, too.) Use low RPM's, lube with oil (any kind) every now and then to facilitate cutting, until the head disconnects from the threaded section and falls off. When the thing it's holding comes off, use a vice grips to turn it out, they are usually pretty loose by then but more importantly the penetrating oil can get at the threads, also.